Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla Enter Jewellery with Iconic Jewels, Dimple Kapadia as Their Muse

After four decades in fashion, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla have entered jewellery with Iconic Jewels, their first jewellery collection, translating the design vocabulary developed through their couture into gold, diamonds, pearls and colored gemstones. The collection draws from embroidery traditions, Indian symbolism and motifs that have appeared across the designers’ work, while Dimple Kapadia returns as its muse, continuing a relationship with the house that dates to its earliest years.

Kapadia was among the first clients of Mata Hari, the Mumbai boutique where Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla began their fashion journey. She also modelled their first Chikankari collection in 1993, establishing an association that has continued across four decades. Her appearance in the Iconic Jewels campaign therefore carries a history of its own. She is not simply presenting a new category for the house but returning to a creative relationship that began when the designers were still establishing their identity in Indian fashion.

Iconic Jewels brings together five design references. Abad takes its cue from Patola embroidery, using 18-karat gold with Zambian emeralds, Mozambique rubies and multicolored sapphires. Its patterned surfaces translate the geometry and color relationships associated with Patola into gemstone jewellery.

Roshnai moves to Chikankari, one of the craft traditions most closely associated with Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla. Here, diamonds and pearls interpret the delicacy of embroidery through Mughal-inspired forms. The transition from fabric to jewellery retains the idea of intricate surface work but changes its scale and material character.

The collection’s more symbolic designs appear through Rudra and Taweez. Rudra references the eye of Shiva, while Taweez draws from the traditional protective amulet. Diamonds, rubies and gold give these pieces a more defined talismanic character, bringing symbolism into the same elaborate vocabulary of ornament that runs through the collection.

Junoon takes a different direction, using emeralds and rubies in patterns inspired by dragon scales. The motif introduces a stronger sense of movement and sculptural form, while the choice of gemstones keeps the pieces connected to the color and opulence that have long been part of the designers’ couture.

Across the five ranges, the references are drawn from elements that already exist within the Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla universe. Embroidery, pattern, symbolism and ornament have been central to the designers’ work in fashion, and jewellery provides another medium through which those ideas can be developed. Instead of reproducing a textile literally, the collection considers what happens when its visual language is transferred into precious materials.

The choice of gemstones is equally important to that translation. Zambian emeralds, Mozambique rubies and multicolored sapphires give Abad its strong color contrasts, while diamonds and pearls soften Roshnai's interpretation of Chikankari. The rubies and diamonds used for the symbolic pieces create a sharper visual vocabulary, while Junoon relies on the saturated color of emeralds and rubies to build its dragon-inspired forms.

The collection is presented at Mubarak Baug, the designers’ new flagship in South Mumbai, inside a dedicated jewellery vault known as The Vault. Its diamond-shaped structure references the geometry of a cut gemstone, with lotus motifs forming part of the architecture. The jewellery is displayed within the structure itself, extending the house’s approach to ornament into the environment in which the collection is presented.

The move into jewellery also arrives as the designers mark 40 years in fashion. Their couture has consistently relied on the relationship between fabric, embroidery, surface and ornament, often pushing traditional Indian techniques into highly elaborate forms. Iconic Jewels takes those same interests into a category where the materials themselves become the surface, with gold and gemstones replacing thread, fabric and embellishment.

Dimple Kapadia’s presence brings that transition back to the beginning. From modelling the designers’ Chikankari work in the 1990s to appearing in their first jewellery campaign in 2026, her association with Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla spans much of the house’s history. Iconic Jewels extends that history into a new material language while remaining closely tied to the craft and visual references that have defined the designers’ work for four decades.