JJ Valaya’s ‘EAST’ at India Couture Week 2025: Where Craft, Culture, and Couture Walked in Unison

When JJ Valaya stages a couture show, it’s not about outshining; it’s about outlasting. His closing presentation at Hyundai India Couture Week 2025 wasn’t designed to chase trends or headlines — it was a moment built to linger. Titled EAST, the showcase unfolded as a richly layered story where every thread carried history, and every silhouette became a bridge between empires and eras.

The setting was the Crystal Ballroom at JW Marriott, New Delhi Aerocity — transformed, for one evening, into a passage through time. Valaya’s aesthetic has always lived at the intersection of nostalgia and modernity, but EAST was perhaps his most articulate expression of that balance. This was not couture for the sake of opulence; it was couture as a dialogue — between the East and the West, between heritage and the now.

The runway opened with cricketer Abhishek Sharma, his stride bringing a fresh, youthful energy that instantly set the tone: this was a collection for those who respect legacy but aren’t confined by it. What followed was a visual journey across centuries and continents, culminating in the majestic closing walks of Ibrahim Ali Khan and Rasha Thadani. Rasha’s lehenga, with its antique gold threadwork and fauna-printed dupatta, spoke of a woman who knows her roots but wears them with contemporary confidence. Ibrahim’s sherwani was a study in architectural precision — matte black cora embroidery, cascading with intent, redefining what men’s couture can look like when heritage is edited through a modern eye.

EAST was thoughtfully divided into three chapters — the romanticism of the Balkans, the serene poise of the Far East, and the unapologetic grandeur of India. But Valaya never plays by literal translations. Instead, he distilled the essence of these regions into textures, motifs, and palettes that felt timeless. From antique neutrals and spice-toned silks to deep bridal reds, every hue told a story. Fabrics like velvet, brocade, and organza were treated with a reverence that only comes from a designer who understands the emotional weight of craftsmanship.

Archana Aggarwal’s jewellery added another dimension to the narrative. Her creations weren’t mere adornments; they were continuations of Valaya’s storytelling — layered necklaces that echoed royal ateliers, matha pattis that seemed plucked from a bygone bridal chamber, yet every piece worn with the attitude of today’s woman.

The grandeur wasn’t confined to the runway. The JW Marriott Aerocity houses Valaya’s flagship — a space that feels like an extension of his mind. Mannequins draped in signature chevrons, tapestries spilling with stories, bridal ateliers that don’t just sell outfits but offer an experience where architecture and fashion coalesce.

Adding a progressive touch to the evening, Hyundai Motor India unveiled the Hyundai CRETA Electric, marking a significant milestone of 10 years for the brand in India. Tarun Garg, COO, emphasised how Hyundai’s partnership with FDCI is not just a sponsorship but a collaboration rooted in cultural storytelling. "JJ Valaya’s showcase was the perfect reflection of this philosophy — where legacy meets innovation," he said.

FDCI Chairman Sunil Sethi summed up the evening’s sentiment, "Couture isn’t just about garments; it’s about narratives. Valaya doesn’t design collections, he curates experiences."

Luxury partners like Grey Goose Altius and Kohler enriched the evening, ensuring every guest walked away having witnessed not just a show, but a celebration of art in its most opulent, yet thoughtful form.

As the final model exited and the applause lingered, it became evident — EAST wasn’t an endnote to Couture Week. It was a reminder of why couture matters. Not because it dazzles, but because it tells stories no algorithm could ever replicate.