At Villa Necchi Campiglio, Tod's Makes the Case for Quiet Italian Luxury

Tod's Spring Summer 2027: The Italian Wardrobe

Tod's has chosen the rationalist interiors of Villa Necchi Campiglio in Milan to stage its men's Spring–Summer 2027 collection, a setting the brand uses to frame what it calls "The Italian Wardrobe," a proposition that leans less on spectacle than on the idea of an authentic Italian way of living. The choice of venue is telling, since the villa has long stood as a byword for understated Milanese refinement, and the collection places itself within that same register rather than against the louder currents of contemporary menswear.

The Pashmy project anchors the ready-to-wear line, which Tod's presents as the highest expression of its research into materials. The name gestures toward pashmina, an association the brand uses to signal softness and lightness, and the material runs through a set of pieces the house frames as wardrobe staples. Among them are the Brera Bomber in warm tones; the Castello Jacket, described as an elegant reading of the blazer with patch pockets; and the Solferino Shirt, which the brand characterizes as weightless and enveloping. Tod's says each piece carries the signature of a master craftsman specialized in the technique, a certification the house offers as evidence of its craft credentials.

The palette moves between earthy registers of beige, cocoa, and ochre and a set of Mediterranean-inspired shades that include Riviera blue and pearl grey, a range consistent with the collection's broader appeal to a recognisably Italian sense of place.

The direction reflects the sensibility of Creative Director Matteo Tamburini, who describes a version of luxury that is never ostentatious yet is meant to be evident in the quality of Made in Italy craftsmanship and in materials intended to outlast passing trends. Tamburini's argument is one of restraint married to ease, a luxury expressed through what the brand calls an appreciation of simple and beautiful things rather than through overt display.

This thinking is most visible in the Red Dot, the sneaker that Tod's is positioning as a new house icon. The brand presents it as a synthesis of its values, translating an older and more rigid idea of luxury into a contemporary language of softness and lightness. Marked by a red dot on the heel that the house treats as a signature of belonging, the sneaker is aimed at a man moving between work and leisure and features elastic lacing and a lightweight sole. The emphasis on versatility reflects a wider shift in luxury menswear, where the line between formal and casual footwear has steadily eroded.

The collection also returns to the pieces that built the brand's name. The Gommino, hand-stitched in its entirety, is offered as an emblem of Italian craft, this season carrying a new leather accessory inspired by the interlocking closure of the house's Greca belt. The same detail appears on an ultra-light loafer with a flexible construction and soft leathers that feel silky, continuing the collection's central theme that luxury, in Tod's view, is measured less by weight and ornament than by how easily it is worn.