Abhishek Sharma’s Ratiaranya and the Quiet Turn in Contemporary Couture

Style Essentials Edit Team
1 hour ago
2 min read

Abhishek Sharma’s latest couture collection, Ratiaranya, was presented in New Delhi in December through a format that resisted spectacle. Shown at The Upper House by Tivoli, the presentation unfolded as a contained experience, allowing the work to be read closely rather than consumed quickly.

The collection draws from emotional states rather than overt narrative. References to awakening, desire and instinct appear subtly, carried through texture, form and movement instead of symbolism. The idea of Rati, often associated with passion, is interpreted here with restraint, favouring intimacy over excess and mood over performance.

Colour plays a measured role throughout the collection. Deep blues, kajal blacks and musk tones form its core, offset by rose hues, honeyed grape shades and softened yellows. Greens and skin-inspired neutrals appear as grounding elements, giving the palette a sense of continuity rather than contrast.

Silhouettes remain close to the body. Fluid saris and sculpted drapes sit alongside mermaid gowns and tailored forms, with structured shoulders softened through motion rather than construction alone. Exaggerated collars and vintage-inspired flares appear selectively, adding character without dominating the collection. The balance between masculine tailoring and feminine fluidity remains consistent, never overstated.

Craft is treated as a language rather than a feature. Metal wirework, three-dimensional body sculpting, resham embroidery, appliqué, pleating and surface manipulation are used with precision. Crystals, stones and fringes appear sparingly, introduced for movement and texture rather than embellishment.

The presentation concluded with Ujjwala Raut as showstopper. Her presence brought a sense of composure and authority to the final moment, aligning with the confidence that runs through the collection.

With Ratiaranya, Abhishek Sharma continues to refine a couture approach that prioritises clarity and emotional depth, allowing craftsmanship and form to speak without amplification.